pole tip protector
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- master
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Another thought, if elite vaulters didn't protect their poles and they observed the pole was comprimised, I would expect they would replace it (whether they paid for it or a company gave it to them) before it would ever get so bad that it might break there. That might explain why we haven't seen any break at that location.
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master wrote:Are you suggesting we shouldn't worry about the abrasion that happens at the position on the pole? This is a serious question. When I was in HS and college we didn't do anything like this and the box walls were not slanted either. When I started vaulting again about 3 years ago, the poles I saw had this protection on them and so when I bought my poles I did likewise.
I haven't put tape or guards on any of my poles since high school, and have yet to have one break. I don't like the added weight. They do get a little marked up, but the glass is thicker at the bottom of the pole anyway. One exception was a school that had a concrete box with a sharp edge, and in that one meet we put a pole guard on them. We have access to over 200 poles in my club, some of them as old as 1976, and not one of them has a guard or tape on the bottom, and many of those poles see over 100 jumps a week on them with no breakage at the bottom.
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master wrote:Another thought, if elite vaulters didn't protect their poles and they observed the pole was comprimised, I would expect they would replace it (whether they paid for it or a company gave it to them) before it would ever get so bad that it might break there. That might explain why we haven't seen any break at that location.
This is true - EB once told me Hartwig had a pole hit the corner of the clamp on a UCS standard (infamous for their sharp-edged clamps), and it put a ding in his pole. Rather than take a chance, he trashed the pole and had Gill send him a new one in its place. That's why you see towels or aquajoggers tied around the clamps in many elite meets.
Still, I know several elites well and have never heard of any of them swapping a pole out because of the abrasion on the bottom.
Any scientist who can't explain to an eight-year-old what he is doing is a charlatan. K Vonnegut
Like Bruce we have tried sections out of aluminum soda cans with fair results, wrap a section of can (2 inches by 6 inches) around 1/2 of the pole (stiff side only) then cover with 1 to 2 layers of tape. If you start to see the soda can it serves as a good indicator to watch your pole for wear. If a person is really "rowing" their pole they will still rub a hole in this material even if covered with athletic tape. The best material we have tried is steel shim stock in the .005 to .007 thickness range. The only time my son has trashed this material is when he does "flips" off his pole into the mats. I think he really cramps the pole into the box when he attempts this feat. Actually the edge of the box that contacts the pole is exactly 9 inches above the bottom of the pole tip (butt plug for those who prefer this name). If a person puts a pole protector from 6 inches to 12 inches above the end of their pole this should take care of all problems when jumping on "standard" boxes. We attend a school meet that has a concrete ledge above the top of the back of the box, If a person is really getting a pole to move we add an extra shim above the existing one.
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I am looking to make pole protectors for the poles at my school. I bought some 1" pvc pipe and have cut it into 9" lengths/sections. I am hoping to cut it down the middle from top to bottom but am trying to figure out the easiest way to do so. Do I put the pvc pipe in a vice and saw through it just on one side and that's it? Or do I have to do something else to widen the cut for the pvc pipe to fit on the pole?
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