Quit Cutting Poles

[vaultdad]

I think the originators of the "cutting poles" theorum probably didn't take very good care of their equipment, or had 1st generation pole tips that resulted in poles that got some inches whacked off to render a serviceable looking pole. Yea, I said whacked off, because whether it was a planned cut with a hacksaw or a $400 chopsaw it's still modifying the original TESTED performance of the fiberglass media. In my opinion you cannot cut it and remark it for flex without retesting it for strength.

Here's a question. How come nobody arbitrairily puts the plug on the other end and jumps on it? What decides which end of the pole becomes the end you grip once you get the pole in your hands? Couldn't you just lop the top off and put a new sticker on it? And yes, I've seen this done. It only proves the theorum "What you don't know CAN hurt you".
I can't agree with Dub on this one. If the Indian Chief made the arrow poorly its the Chiefs fault. If the indian borrowed the arrow and messed with it before shooting himself in the foot with it, it's the indians fault.

This is the kind of thing that enables lawyers to live comfortably pretty easily. Sorry, I'll get off my soapbox now.

[Bruce Caldwell]

That reminded me of a situation.

In 1990 when I first sold Fibersport and the Maxima 4 pole to a sport company in TX that eventually obtained the PORTaPIT/CATAPOLE name.
We were setting up the assembly line of poles and testing. All was going well when the first batch was going out the door. The pole tested great and I was looking forward to shipping and took that last trip over to do last minute Quality Control.

We had 35 poles ready to be shipped and I quickly noticed that the pole tips were on the small side of the pole and then to my shock found that all the labeling was up side down. I was so glad these did not get out the door as they were all assembled upside down.

What would happen is every pole would have broken, as the tapered side of the pole is softer than the butt side. We added a new QC dept. and never had the problem ever again. So never jump on your pole upside down OK

That was then but today!

[color=darkblue][b]I was working yesterday in the our new Fort Worth Plant and it was amazing to see that we check and test each pole several times throughout the fabrication cycle. Before rolling the pattern is re-measured and tagged. Before we fuse the materials together the tag is placed on the oven and follows the pole through the whole cycle.
Once off the mandrel it is butt flexed to see if it is exactly meets the stiffness we programmed. Then it is measured trimmed and flex tested to insure its flexural strength. Then the pole is labeled and engraved and is placed in a plastic sleeve to protect the pole along with a photo of the pole in it’s individual test.

We then place it is a schedule 40-2â€Â

[Carolina Extreme]

This may be an oversimplification but,... Just drop your grip. Don't cut the pole, it should rarely be necessary. If you can't get in the pit there is a pretty good chance you are gripping to high. Drop your grip a few inches and see if it doesn't roll over easier, land you deeper and give you much more pop off the top. The big question then is, "Are you good enough to catch the ride, or will it get away from you?" Time it up and get launched!

[vaultguru6]

The only time i have cut my poles was when i was moving from 15' to 16' foot poles. i was only gripping about 14'11" on the 16' pole and the pole really didn't feel like it was rolling the way i was used to it. Because I was gripping so low i felt like i was too low relative to the sail. So before the next meet, i cut 3 inches off the bottom, replaced the cap, still gripped 14'11", but felt as though i was more on to of, and hence in a better position relative to the sail. I ended up jumping 5m for the first time, a 9 inch PR at the time, on that same pole the next time i jumped on it. Just wondering what you guys think of cutting a pole in that situation.

[Bruce Caldwell]

Why cut your pole when a manufactuer understands your needs?

The only time i have cut my poles was when i was moving from 15' to 16' foot poles. i was only gripping about 14'11" on the 16' pole and the pole really didn't feel like it was rolling the way i was used to it. Because I was gripping so low i felt like i was too low relative to the sail. So before the next meet, i cut 3 inches off the bottom, replaced the cap, still gripped 14'11", but felt as though i was more on to of, and hence in a better position relative to the sail. I ended up jumping 5m for the first time, a 9 inch PR at the time, on that same pole the next time i jumped on it. Just wondering what you guys think of cutting a pole in that situation.

So what you are saying is the pole worked better for you when you moved your hand farther away from the center of the sail?
click here to see our sail:
http://f2.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/essxsport/vwp?.dir=/ESSX+PICS&.dnm=sample+POLE+sail+design.jpg&.view=t&.done=http%3a//f2.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/essxsport/lst%3f%26.dir=/ESSX%2bPICS%26.src=ph%26.view=t
One would think you could accomplish the same by selecting a stiffer shorter length pole, but you would have to hold it higher and possibly higher than recommended into or above the ring?

What you are saying is the manufacturers do not know how to build poles?

Well we will not go there but what you are saying is this :

The perfect pole would be one that was built with a lower sail and was designed to deliver the energy better without the dangers of energy flowing into a thinner wall area.

This perfect pole would feel like the sail was made where you vaulters need it and the pole would not be cut off.

This perfect pole would roll better than other brands when used properly.

This perfect pole would be designed to hold the energy and not have the dangers like a cut off pole with the potential to allow the energy to move into a non-reinforced thinner area, which could result in a broken pole.
With this properly made pole you will have a better and more angled return of energy to give you the penetration over the bar.
Not something that throws you real high and you have difficulty clearing the bar unless you hit, volz, or get lucky.
UMMMMM This pole is out there already guys and gals.
ASK Earl Bell, Ask M-F Athletic Co, Ask CalTrack REC. or ask me!

[vaultguru6]

Why cut your pole when a manufactuer understands your needs?

Just a random question........I know many of the elite vaulters order their poles to the exact flex, sail position, and in some cases length they need it at. If an unsponsored vaulter were to order their pole to the exact length/flex/sail position in which they wanted it in order to make the perfect pole for that particular vaulter, would the cost be any more?

[zack]

would the cost be any more?

Well, most of the elite athletes get their poles for free from the various companies.

[Bruce Caldwell]

Why cut your pole when a manufactuer understands your needs?

Just a random question........I know many of the elite vaulters order their poles to the exact flex, sail position, and in some cases length they need it at. If an unsponsored vaulter were to order their pole to the exact length/flex/sail position in which they wanted it in order to make the perfect pole for that particular vaulter, would the cost be any more?

I was informed that Spirit just as ESSX charges an extra 25.00 per pole to hit an exact flex number. We all have to make about one or two poles to get it exact.
ESSX is not a production line, we specialize in making poles custom. Need a 12'4"- 185, 11'6"- 66, 15'9' 17.2 carbon?
I got them on the shelf
You can ask a few people who have visited our factory and you can make an appointment to come and visit us too.
Beside we can put you to work and reduce our labor LOL

[Robert schmitt]

I have a theory; Back in the day when I vaulted poles came in 1' increments most commonly. Vaulters probably discovered that they couldn't make the transition from a 14' to a 15' (or 15-16) but if they cut 3-5" off the bottom of the pole the pole would work better for them. Now days the need for this is gone b/c pole are commonly produced in 6" increments. So you can get a pole that 1) more exactly fits your needs 2) you know what you’re getting ie. A 14'6" 150 as opposed to a 15' 135 that had 6" cut and is now a? 3) A safe and legal pole.

So in my theory cutting poles at one time may of served a purpose but now is not necessary and an added risk.

[lonestar]

I agree that 6" increment poles have helped to ease transitions to longer lengths rather than the traditional 1' spans, but see cutting poles as more of a design and response solution.

For example: I inherited 3 12'6 poles for my club, a 100, 110, and 120. Bottom line: these poles sucked! We didn't have any problem rolling them over or getting in on them, but they always bent all at the bottom and were pressed against the pit just above the box, even when they weren't bent past like 75 degrees, and felt mushy as hell, no matter who jumped on them. Took 3" off, not much difference. Another 3", a little better. Took an additional 6" off the 100 and made it an 11'6 pole, flexed out as the equivalent of an 11' 135 or 12' 115 and is a money pole, never hits the pit even in a 90 degree bend. The other 2 poles flex out as a 12' 120 and 12' 125 and still bend low and suck, but fill the gap in our series better now than before.

Not saying it's the right thing to do, and don't advocate the uninformed to try it, but it worked for us.